My London: Beyond the Tourist Trail

The Places I Actually Send People To

I've lived in London for over two decades. And yet, almost every week, someone visiting asks me the same question: "Where should we go?"

Not the Big Ben equivalent. Not the postcard version. They want to know where the real London is. Where locals actually go.

So here it is — my honest, personal guide to the London I love. No Big Ben. No queue for the London Eye. Just the places that have given me — and the people I've sent there — genuine joy.

So once you've done a day on the hop-on hop-off bus and ticked off the main highlights — it's time to discover the real thing.

The Ladies' Pond, Hampstead Heath

This one is close to my heart. Literally — I live nearby.

The Ladies' Pond on Hampstead Heath is open all year round, even in winter. And yes, it gets cold. But there is something about that place that makes you feel profoundly alive.

This is a place where only women are allowed — and it has been that way for over 100 years. You feel it the moment you arrive. There's a particular energy here that is hard to put into words. A quiet collective safety. Women of all ages, all bodies, all backgrounds — swimming, floating, sitting in silence or talking softly. No performance. No rushing. Just presence.

The Ladies' Pond isn't just a swim. It's a cleansing. A reset.

One thing to know before you go: no cameras are allowed at the Ladies' Pond. Which, honestly, only adds to the feeling of the place.

Go once, and you'll understand why I keep going back.

If you're visiting as a couple, it doesn't have to be a solo experience. Nearby is the Men's Pond, and at the other end of the Heath, the Mixed Pond. Split up, swim separately, and meet afterwards for a walk or a coffee. It actually makes for a beautifully intimate date — you each carry your own experience back to share.

🌿 Neal's Yard, Covent Garden

Most people visit Covent Garden, look around the market hall, and move on. They miss it entirely.

Neal's Yard is tucked just around the corner — a tiny, colourful courtyard hidden between urban buildings. Bright painted walls, window boxes, hanging plants. It looks like it belongs in a fairy tale rather than central London.

Here's what I love to do there:

• Grab a slice at Homeslice Neal's Yard — one of my favourite pizzas in London, or dine at the fabulous The Barbary nearby

• Browse the original Neal's Yard Remedies shop (the first one, right there) for organic skincare and wellness products

• Sit with a coffee and just... breathe

  
  

It's a perfect mid-afternoon stop, especially if you've been walking all morning. Small, quiet, beautiful. The kind of place that makes you feel like you've discovered a secret — even though it's been there for decades.

🚤 Thames Speedboat — For Families with Teenagers

Every family I've ever sent on this has come back buzzing.

The City Experience is a speedboat ride along the Thames, and it plays James Bond music while you fly past the city's skyline at full speed. I know how it sounds. But trust me — when the music starts and the boat takes off, something happens. Even teenagers who were rolling their eyes in the queue are suddenly screaming and laughing.

Of all the things we've done with visitors over the years — this is consistently the one teenagers talk about for the rest of the trip.

Book in advance. It gets full quickly, especially in summer.

🌸 The Markets — But Not the Ones You've Already Heard Of

Yes, Camden Market and Portobello Road are worth a visit. But they're also packed, commercial, and loud on weekends. Let me tell you about the ones I actually go to.

Columbia Road Flower Market — East London, Sundays only. Arrive early — it gets busy quickly and the atmosphere in the morning is something special. A narrow street transformed into an explosion of colour and scent. Flowers everywhere, sellers shouting prices, locals loading their arms with bouquets. It's alive in the best possible way. But don't stop at the market itself — the streets around it are filled with independent shops, coffee spots, and vintage gems that reward wandering. And from there, continue into the cool, creative neighbourhood of Shoreditch — street art around every corner, independent boutiques, great coffee, and a real sense of London's creative pulse.

Speaking of street art — if that's your thing, look up Alternative London, which runs brilliant street art and graffiti tours and workshops in the area. A genuinely eye-opening way to see a side of the city most tourists never find.

Brixton Village — Caribbean street food next to vintage clothing, handmade jewellery, Indian kimonos, African fabrics. A covered market that feels like three continents in one afternoon. Come hungry. Leave with something you didn't plan to buy. Again — explore beyond the market itself. The surrounding streets have brilliant coffee shops, wine bars, and record stores.

Spitalfields Market and Broadway Market are also well worth a morning, particularly on a Saturday. Again — the area around each market is half the experience. Do not rush in and rush out.

The rule I always give people: the market is the anchor, not the destination. Let yourself drift.

🚶 The Walk: Primrose Hill → Regent's Canal → Camden → King's Cross

This is my family's favourite London walk. We've done it dozens of times and it never gets old.

Start at the top of Primrose Hill Park. Take a moment. The view of the London skyline from here is extraordinary — and almost no one outside the neighbourhood knows to come here. This is where locals come on New Year's Eve, on sunny Sunday mornings, on the days they need to feel connected to the city. (And before or after the park, don't miss the Primrose Hill high street — a small, charming village strip of independent shops and cafés. Walk a little further and you'll find the magical, colourful residential street, Chalcot Crescent, that was used as a filming location for Paddington. It's as picture-perfect in real life as it looks on screen.)

Then walk down from the park and pick up the Regent's Canal. Walk alongside the water. On the opposite bank, you'll see some of the most beautiful private houses in London — painted in soft colours, draped in wisteria in spring, with little boats moored in front. It's like a different world running quietly beneath the city.

The canal path takes you all the way to Camden market. Stop for food, explore the market, take in the energy.

And if you have the energy — keep going. Follow the canal further east and after 15 minutes you'll arrive at King's Cross.

Follow the path until you see the Victorian brick arches opening up before you — walk through them and you'll find yourself stepping into Coal Drops Yard. The arrival itself is part of the experience.

The King's Cross area has been completely transformed over the last decade. What was once industrial wasteland is now one of the most exciting parts of the city. And at the centre of it is Coal Drops Yard — a beautifully restored Victorian coal storage yard turned into a stunning space of independent shops, restaurants, and one of the most striking rooflines in London. For food, you're spoiled for choice: The Coal Office, Dishoom, Lona, Caravan, The Lighterman by the water — and so many other wonderful options scattered throughout. Whatever you're in the mood for, you'll find it here. And Coal Drops Yard doesn't just come alive at mealtimes — throughout the year there are free public activities in the outdoor spaces. In summer, open-air cinema. In winter, crazy golf. The programme changes constantly, so it's always worth checking what's on when you visit. It's the perfect place to end a long walk with something genuinely special.

In winter, don't miss Winter Wonderland at Hyde Park — festive, atmospheric, and a genuine London tradition. And just nearby, the Natural History Museum sets up an outdoor ice rink in its stunning courtyard. Skating surrounded by that Victorian Gothic facade on a cold evening is as magical as it sounds.

For garden lovers — make time for Kew Gardens. Whatever season you visit, there is always something extraordinary to see.

🚣 On the Water — Paddington Basin

Here's one most visitors never think of: getting on the water.

From Paddington Basin, you can hire a GoBoat — a small, self-driven electric boat that you navigate yourself along the canal towards Camden Market. No experience needed. You set your own pace, stop where you like, and see London from a completely different angle. If you'd rather something more active, the same route is also available by SUP (stand-up paddleboard) or kayak.

And even if you don't get on the water, Paddington itself is worth a wander. The area around the basin has been beautifully developed in recent years — canal-side coffee shops, restaurants, and independent spots that make for a lovely hour of wandering alongside the water.

🏙️ Canary Wharf — Not Where You'd Expect a Hidden Gem, But...

Canary Wharf is known as London's financial district — all glass towers and suits. Not exactly the first place that comes to mind for a day out. But it's worth knowing about, because quietly, the area has developed into something more interesting than its reputation suggests.

The headline is the floating swimming pool — a genuinely unique experience, moored right on the water. Swimming outdoors, surrounded by the skyline, is the kind of thing you didn't know you needed until you've done it.

Beyond that, there are regularly changing activities along the waterside — events, installations, and pop-ups throughout the year. It's the kind of place that rewards checking what's on before you go.

🍽️ Places to Eat — With a View, a Vibe, or Both

London's restaurant scene is extraordinary. Here are the ones that have earned a permanent place on my list.

Sky Garden — Book one of the two restaurants for about 30 minutes before sunset — there's a more casual option and a more formal one, so you can choose the mood that suits you. You'll have time to walk the 360-degree garden at the top of the building before sitting down to eat as the sun goes down over the city. The timing is everything. Don't just book and sit — arrive early and walk the garden first.

And at night, expect surprises — live music, a DJ, or something else entirely. Check the website before you go so you can plan around it.

Roka on charlotte street — Our all-time favourite. If you love Asian food, this is it. We've been going for years and it never disappoints. It spans two floors, each with a different atmosphere — same food, different feel. Worth knowing before you book.

Sushi Samba on the 42nd floor — This one is more about the atmosphere than anything else. The food is ok, but the view and the energy of the place are the real reason to go. Worth it for the experience.

Berners Tavern — For a romantic dinner. Grand, beautiful, and surprisingly warm. One of those rooms that makes you feel like you're in a film.

Sketch — Go for drinks (I prefer the Green Room) or for a full meal. The design is unlike anywhere else in London — the whole place is made up of several rooms, each with a completely different design and atmosphere. Part of the fun is wandering between them. And before you leave — visit the toilets. I know how that sounds. Just trust me. Once you see them, you'll understand exactly why I made it a recommendation.

The Nest at the Treehouse Hotel — a cosy, beautifully designed spot that feels like a real find. And while you're there, don't miss the restaurant underneath Madera — a different vibe, equally worth it.

Sucre and Motorino — Both in Covent Garden, both favourites. Sucre for modern Latin dining, Motorino for the Italian.

For live music, London makes it easy — you'll find it in many neighbourhoods. But for live jazz specifically, head to Camden Market. The energy there in the evenings is something else.

🎨 Galleries — Beyond the Big Names

Everyone knows the Tate Modern, Tate Britain, the South Bank, and the Royal Academy of Arts. And yes, they're all worth visiting. But London has a rich world of smaller, more intimate galleries that I love just as much — sometimes more.

The Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea is consistently one of the most exciting contemporary art spaces in the city. The shows rotate, so there's almost always something surprising. When you leave, turn right through the black gates — you'll find yourself in a beautiful area of independent shops, cafés, and restaurants that most visitors walk straight past.

Not far from there, explore Pavilion Road — a lovely, tucked-away street that rewards a slow stroll.

Then there are the two Serpentine Galleries — just five minutes apart, right in the heart of Hyde Park. One of my favourite things about the Serpentine is their annual summer Pavilion Commission: every year, they invite a world-renowned international architect to design and build a temporary structure in the park. Each pavilion is completely unique — some are bold and dramatic, others quiet and meditative — and it becomes a gathering place, a conversation, a piece of architecture you can actually sit inside and experience. It only exists for a few months, which makes it feel precious. If you're in London during the summer, it's not to be missed.

And if you're visiting in October, try to catch Frieze London — one of the world's most prestigious contemporary art fairs, held right in Regent's Park. It brings together hundreds of leading galleries from across the globe for a few days of extraordinary art, talks, and events. It draws collectors, curators, and art lovers from everywhere, but you don't need to be any of those things to be moved by it. It's a rare chance to see so much remarkable work in one place.

🌿 Walks in Nature — Beyond the Obvious

London is far greener than most visitors expect. And some of the best walks take you somewhere that feels nothing like a city at all.

Hampstead Heath deserves more than a quick visit. Start at Kenwood House — a stunning 18th-century mansion with beautiful grounds — and take time for a coffee at the garden café there. Then cross the Heath, wandering past its many lakes and open spaces, all the way down to South End Road. It's the kind of walk that leaves you feeling quietly restored.

And in Regent's Park, most people stick to the main paths. But tucked away inside is one of London's best-kept secrets — the St. John's Lodge Garden, known to locals as the secret garden. Walled, peaceful, and beautifully planted — it feels like stepping into another world entirely. And nearby, don't miss the Rose Garden — especially stunning in early summer when it's in full bloom.

While you're in Regent's Park in summer, check what's on at the Open Air Theatre. Watching a show outdoors on a warm evening, surrounded by trees, is one of those London experiences that stays with you.

The Real London Is in the In-Between

What I love most about this city is what happens between the landmarks.

The canal path you almost didn't take. The courtyard you nearly walked past. The market you visited on a whim because it was Sunday and you had an hour to spare.

London rewards the people who slow down and wander. Who resist the urge to tick boxes and instead let the city surprise them.

For what's on any given week, two resources I always recommend: Time Out London and Secret London. Between them, they cover everything from pop-ups and exhibitions to free events and new openings. Worth checking before any visit.

If you're coming to visit — I hope this helps. And if you go to any of these places, I'd love to hear what you discovered along the way.

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All recommendations in this article are entirely personal — places I genuinely love and visit myself. None of this is an advertisement or paid partnership of any kind. As with all experiences, details may change, so please check ahead before visiting. Ultimately, your experience is your own responsibility — I just hope it's a wonderful one.

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This article was written by Dr. Kalanit Ben-Ari, a psychologist, psychotherapist, trainer, and international speaker. With a doctorate in Psychology, Dr. Ben-Ari has over 25 years of experience in the field and currently runs a private clinic in Hampstead, London. She is also MAFS Israel expert, an author, speaker, therapist supervisor, and faculty member of the Imago International Institute. She served as the Chair of Imago Relationships Therapy UK from 2013 to 2023.

Dr. Ben-Ari leads The Association Hub, a vibrant community for therapists, and Awakening Love, an online course helping couples reconnect and grow together.